It is Wednesday, June 14, and we walked from Blakey Ridge to Glaisdale. It was another warm day so we left at 6:15AM.
Here is our inn for the last two nights. The Lion Inn at Blakey Ridge.
Once again, our walk took us across the tops of moors. However, we lucked out today by avoiding the climbs up the moors because we started out already on top and stayed there until we came down into our destination at Glaisdale. We have one more big moor climb tomorrow and then we are, sadly, out of the moors.
I talked yesterday about enjoying the quiet and loneliness of the moors. Janet just wishes she could see them once shrouded in fog like they are in all the English novels. I don’t think she is going to get her wish, not on this trip anyway. Once again, we saw lots of birds, especially grouse today.
One of the first things we came across is a monument, well known on the C2C, called Fat Betty. The tradition is that hikers leave a snack and take a snack at Fat Betty. We left some protein bars and took a Biscoff biscuit. A little later in the morning we spent a good bit of time walking down Great Fryup Lane. Perhaps Fat Betty got her name because she spent too much time on Great Fryup Lane, who knows. Here is Fat Betty being carefully guarded by a couple sheep.
We had some more beautiful views across the moors. The landscape is changing again as we near the North Sea.
Because we left early this morning, and we are walking faster (mostly due to flatter and easier walking than earlier in the trip), we arrived at our BnB at 10:30AM. Way too early to check in. We had anticipated this and asked our innkeeper if we could leave our backpacks. She graciously agreed and we hopped a train to nearby Whitby.
Whitby is a popular tourist destination right on the sea and it was packed. We haven’t seen this many people since the Manchester airport almost 3 weeks ago. It was a little shocking. Whitby is home to the ruins of Whitby Abbey which also inspired Bram Stoker’s Dracula. Whitby is also home to an uncountable number of fish and chip shops. One specific restaurant had been recommended to us by our innkeeper way back in Danby Wiske, the middle of the country. She said we had to go to Magpie’s Restaurant. So we did. It was good. The fish was very moist and fresh and the fries good. I had to chuckle though. Earlier in our trip, our friend Rich, who was hiking with us for the first half, told a story about a man who set out to prove that McDonald’s French fries do not taste as good as they used to. Evidently, McDonald’s used to fry their potatoes in beef fat and that supposedly made the fries taste better. So today, at Magpie’s in Whitby, there was a bold print sentence in the menu saying Magpie’s deep fries it’s fish and potatoes “in the traditional way, in beef drippings,” (read: beef fat). Okay, I better walk a couple extra miles tomorrow to lower that cholesterol back down. After our “traditional” lunch, we were pretty tired and burned out on crowds and caught the bus back to our BnB.
By the way, it seems to be tradition here that when you check into your BnB, the innkeeper offers you a pot of tea and some cake or cookies (biscuits). It is very nice and we always accept the offer. Today, we had some delicious buttered raisin bread toast and shortbread with our tea. Did I mention we are eating our way across England? I think I did.
Tonight, we are staying at the Beggar’s Bridge BnB. Here is the bridge.
The legend goes like this. In the early 17th century, a humble pauper named Ferris (early ancestor of Ferris Bueller, just kidding) was in love with Agnes, the daughter of a local wealthy squire. But because Ferris was so poor, his proposal would never be accepted. So Ferris decided to join the navy of Sir Francis Drake and sail the seas to make his fortune. The night before he sailed he went to bid a romantic farewell to Agnes, but the river Esk was flooding, and he could not get across. So he left for the sea, without a farewell embrace. (Cue the sad music). Ferris did indeed make his fortune, mostly in piracy, and returned a wealthy man. He married his dear Agnes and built the Beggar’s Bridge, so that no other young lovers would suffer the same torment. (The music swells as the curtain closes.) Isn’t that a good story! Now you know the legend of Beggar’s Bridge.
In the field tonight we spotted this beautiful pheasant. He was handsome!
We must be in England, Toto, because that is cricket they’re playing just behind our BnB.
Today’s miles: 10.22. Total miles so far: 172. Miles remaining: 18.
We love you all.
God bless,
Coe
Beautiful photos and commentary. We are betting it is bittersweet for you both to see the end of your amazing adventure drawing nearer. Relish those last 18 miles. What an accomplishment! OXO
It is indeed bittersweet. And it is getting easier and easier.
Maybe you could walk back looking for the fog?
Prayers for continued strength and peace as you finish your trek. Jan